With my usual timing, I came down ill last Wednesday and, for the following several days, wasn't up to anything but laying on the couch moaning. Today I'm much more myself, but of course I am lacking an iron, which is, as project managers say, a blocker. (Fun fact: you cannot get any iron at all with the "Get it Today!" button on Amazon.) This will be rectified tomorrow, but I'm more than somewhat annoyed by losing most of a week of work.
On the bright side! Things that have arrived include my 5lbs of raw cotton, and my ILL of Janet Arnold's article on the Black Prince's jupon! Which is a downloadable PDF! I NEVER HAVE TO GIVE IT BACK! MOO HOO HA HA!
I haven't un-vacuum-sealed the cotton yet because I don't want to start getting fibers everywhere before I'm ready to address them, but I've torn into the article like a kid on Christmas morning. Here are our takeaways (with the disclaimers that Saint Janet had to examine the garment through the conservation net, with the possible inaccuracies this introduces):
- It has a linen lining, cotton wadding for padding, and the silk velvet (linen weft) fashion fabric (already appliquéd, as previously noted).
- The fleurs-de-lis were done in the "part-of-the-ground-fabric" style of semy, rather than all as complete charges. On the other hand, the leopards of the English arms were carefully sized for the space available in order to be entirely complete charges. Not relevant to today's project, but interesting to note for future reference.
- What is not clear to me is whether the silver label of cadency was just appliquéd on top of the ground devices. Seems like a hell of a waste of goldwork if it was, and a bunch of extra work if it wasn't.
- As I'd theorized from looking at it, the quilting happened after the layers were assembled.
- There's fragmentary linen binding around the neckline, with a few remaining thread bits to suggest there was velvet there too (but it's not clear from the article if, like the garment itself, this is the remaining linen warp of the velvet, or whether there was a linen layer and then a velvet layer over top of it).
- The quilting seems to've been done with silk thread.
- There was twisted red-and-blue silk cord lain over the seams joining the heraldic quarters. Quaere: is this purely to ease the visual transition, or would it be something fun to do to ornament any seam?
- She does talk about Red Charlie and Gold Charlie, but not at the comparison level I need, namely on the padding differences. Though she does kindly include the quilting lines on each of them.
This is all very cool, though for the most part not immediately helpful on the how-to front, but for some reason I feel a greater level of confidence for having it in my pocket. On the down side, I feel the chances of having the test linen garment done in two weeks are vanishingly small; so I expect my entry may end up being more about explorations on the padding/quilting front. And that's OK too.
 this is how we are officially designating Charles VI's and Charles de Blois' pourpoints respectively. Please take note for future correspondence.